7 Fresh London Fashion Week Designers To Keep On Your Radar

Naaila Khan

Another fabulous fashion week just came to an end – London put up shows post Brexit, and proved #LondonisOpen through 6 days and dozens of designers. And while you know exactly what Burberry had on display (Kane’s gorgeous direct-to-consumer women’s and men’s Fall 2016 collections) and what Erdem played around with (17th century-inspired stories), it’s nice to know that there’s a fresh, new or semi-new crop of designers that deserve to be on your checklist.

Here’s a primer on the new wave of designers you need to know about:

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Ashley Williams, promising British-based fledgling made her NEWGEN debut at LFW spring/summer 2015, was hotly tipped as a standout designer, and now continues to turn more heads than ever.

This time, her ready-to-wear collection mixed athleisure – the trend that refuses to go anywhere – with cartoon gothic imagery. There was a good peppering of ruffles, stripes, fringe, and pastels, as far as trends go.



While British-based, New Zealand-born, Central Saint Martin’s graduate, Emilia Wickstead launched her eponymous label in 2008, with her first season at LFW 2012 giving her a rep of combining creative flair with exacting craftsmanship and going on to become a favourite of the Duchess of Cambridge, she continues to become even more popular every season.

This time, she took the perhaps sleazy concept of 1970's 'love hotels' and somehow beautifully turned it into strong wardrobe potential for next spring. She saw these South American hotels from the 1970s through rose-tinted glasses – quite literally – using several shades of pink and a light, vintage summer feel. We saw florals, polka dots, orange, green and pink dresses, and skirts and shirts galore.



China-born, London-based Zhang, whose resume boasts of experience at Dior's haute couture atelier, launched his womenswear label in 2011 and made his debut at LFW in September 2012. Since then, his collections have only gotten more popular, with celebs like Rose Byrne, Sarah Jessica Parker, and Kerry Washington counting as his fans.

For someone used to his delicate creations, this time was a cool surprise – his RTW was distinctly edgy with tough rivets and spiky flowers on otherwise signature sweet cocktail dresses.



Poland-born, Germany-raised, London-based designer Marta Jakubowski's aesthetic usually showcases a past working in films and interning for Alexander Wang, with flowing fabric and smart cutouts, but this time the designer took to the stage to showcase an avant-garde collection, coming from an emotional place.

She set out to show mixed feelings of her mother’s loss and becoming a changed person after a summer trip to India. So there was lots of bright pink, red and orange to evoke the hues of India, while black and white to represent mortality. It featured exquisite satin, velvet, and drapes, all centred around a carousel for a set.



While West London native Goddard, the designer best known for Rihanna’s tulle fluorescent green "Sophie" dress – has a signature baby doll aesthetic, she amped that up in her debut runway show with tulle in statement-making, fluorescent shades.

Dresses were inset with chest panels in a Neoprene-like, technical fabric, photographer Nick Waplington’s snapshots of the New York club scene were printed on T-shirts, and the designer expressed she was inspired by those who use their clothes to escape “the mundanities of their working lives”.



Young London-based designer Hannah Weiland is known for her beautifully crafted pieces, but with a good helping of rainbows, faux fur and a fun thrown in. This season, the faux fur was still there, but Weiland took it up a notch – with girls marching in silky, pyjama-style pieces with Little House on the Prairie bonnets to boot, while ballooning dresses, colours like forest green and pearly pink texture, and a variety of textures made it all very playful.



Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones of Teatum Jones  a label which is recognised for its modern, polished and bold aesthetic  kicked off LFW by re-introducing menswear on the runway (the duo met designing menswear before launching TJ as a womenswear line).

Their collection was a celebration of Scotland and of human diversity, with some pieces featuring botanic florals and abstract landscapes inspired by the early 20thcentury water colours of Charles Renee Mackintosh.

The RTW collection also featured color block tops and bottoms, dresses in contrasting stripes, quilted bomber jackets in delicate floral prints, and lingerie-inspired silks panelled with delicate French lace.



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